Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2010 Pret-a-Porter is over and there is much to review. First, let’s just say that some designers’ version of what “ready to wear” means is just laughable. Viktor and Rolf I’m looking your way. But it’s good entertainment. Also- I was very saddened but he EXCESSIVE use of fur. It’s disgusting, unethical, tacky and it’s the easy way out. I must say I expected more. Now, shall I start with my favorites?
Miu Miu
Here we see some of the structured primness that we usually expect from design houses such as Chanel. The silhouette created by the exaggerated necks and puffed sleeves of the otherwise “boring” black coats were wonderful, though I could have done without the cutesy pocket shapes. My other favorite part were these sort of “shoes bibs” that looks like they tied around the ankle to give a little more substance to an otherwise overly cutesy heel. Also to be applauded- the use of mustard yellow and pale violet.
Anna Sui
COLOR! Thank God! While almost every other designer decided that the dropping of the temperature means we have to shroud ourselves in inky black darkness, Sui decided to celebrate the season- with intricate patterns, mountaintop prints, and layers upon layers of jewel-toned joy! Think about it- Fall is actually one of the most colorful seasons- not only with the leaves changing but with all the earthy foods like squash, broccoli, and red onion. Let’s we celebrate- Sui style.
Emanuel Ungaro!
Also highly colorful and creative, Ungaro played with mixing and matching prints- plaid and polka dots, leopard and floral, pink and turquoise. It could have looked disjointed, but it didn’t. It looked like all the really cool clothes your college roommate had that never looked quite the same when you borrowed them for a party.
Carolina Herrera
She isn’t really my style- but I do like her attempt to bring back Katherine Hepburn style high-waisted men’s pants. And this dress and the FABRIC especially are to die for. I would buy ANYTHING in this fabric- even an oven mit. Yeah…definitely an oven mit.
Marc Jacobs
He manages to make an all grey color palette look not too dowdy. Check out this amazing hounds-tooth and crazy glitter-gold saddle shoes!
Michael Kors
It must be admitted that he did a fabulous job (just as everyone said he did.) Beige, brown and grey played out wonderfully together in this collection that was at turns equal parts equestrian and nautical with just a dash of Gatsby flavored mischief.
Marchesa
Pretty, pretty, pretty detail… Did I say it was pretty? I wouldn’t be surprised if the designers were not actually people, but fairies or hummingbirds with sketchpads and sewing machines.
***Honorable mention to Cynthia Rowly and Gaimbattista Valli.
And now the worst:
Armani
Ridiculous and heinous. Appeared to borrow from every decade since 1900 and the color palette was garish and in-cohesive.
Burberry
They began making overcoats and that’s what they should stick too. They showed fabulous blazers and trenches but everything else looked desperate- overly rouged satin skirts with thigh high leather boots – a late 90′s nightmare brought back to life in it’s full wine colored glory.
Chanel
I love Chanel- but this collection looks to have been inspired by Chewbacca (full-on mammoth suits for both men and women.) There was other stuff too, but I can’t remember what it was, so that tells you something right there. What was really cool was their runway- the models walked out of an iceberg splashing through an inch of water. Very cool. And I loved the heels/boots they wore They looks liked heels with these sort of sock-looking inserts that went up to the knees. I don’t know what they were, but I want a pair.
***Givenchy, Diesel, Dolce & Gabanna, Stella McCartney, Versace- all disappointing.
And Yves Saint Laurent – Inspired by nuns and 80′s business execs. Need I say more?
NOTE: All photos courtesy of Getty Images.
